We all need one, we all have one, but most of us take them for granted. The hardest working muscle we possess, I’m talking about the heart. The iconic romantic symbol that we all recognise, epitomising love and friendship. But what of the culinary delights it has to offer? Is that screams of disgust I hear?! Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.
My mother served us stuffed hearts as children, and we knew better than to utter the words ‘yuk’ or ‘that’s disgusting’. We ate what was put in front of us, with no fuss. And thank heavens for my mothers no nonsense attitude, or I may well have missed out on this culinary pleasure. She would fill the hearts with stuffing mixture and bake in the oven and serve with mashed potato and gravy. I can safely say that we were the only children at our school who relished the thought of this supper (or had even heard of it). We did have the advantage of having lived in France, so mums cookery repertoire took on a whole new exquisite range. That may have been because when we first moved to Dunkirk, she couldn’t speak French, so may not have realized what she was buying! No matter what the reasons, I am forever grateful for her introducing us to this cheap yet utterly delectable delicacy.
In turn, I presented stuffed hearts for supper one evening, to my new then boyfriend (it couldn’t have been that bad as he’s now my husband!) and his daughter. Neither had experienced eating heart before and both devoured the meal with gusto. Unfortunately the same can’t be said for my daughter, who had unbeknown to her eaten heart before, albeit disguised in a casserole. The heart still looked like a heart, just stuffed and covered in gravy, so she could only stomach eating half before turning a delightful shade of green. I’d like to point out now, it was nothing to do with my cooking, but the thought of what she was eating. I’ll go back to ‘hearts in disguise’ in future for her.
Which is recently exactly what I did. My husband admitted after the meal that he actually preferred to have the heart chopped up so it didn’t resemble a pumping muscle quite so much – wuss. Rather than stuffing the heart (quite tricky if it’s diced!) I decided on devilled instead. There are so many recipes out there which vary considerably, but this is my version. This method works well with most offal, and since this meal, I’ve also produced the same dish with kidneys, but added extra crème fraiche for a creamier sauce.
Devilled Hearts – serves 2
2 lambs hearts
1 tsp oil (or one spray of oil)
2 tbs plain seasoned flour
1 clove garlic
1 tsp crushed peppercorns
dash of worcester sauce
1 tsp paprika
1 heaped tsp wholegrain mustard
2 tbs crème fraiche
Wash and dice the lambs heart, ensure all sinew is removed. Cover the diced heart in the seasoned flour and coat thoroughly. Chop the onion and garlic. Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the heart, onions and garlic, adding a drop of water if it starts to stick on the bottom of the pan. Add the peppercorns, stock, worcester sauce and paprika, cover and simmer gently for an hour, stirring occasionally. Add the mushrooms and mustard, cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Take off the heat and stir in the crème fraiche. Serve with mashed potato and vegetables.
I hope some of you will try this, or a variation of this recipe and with offal being such a cheap option compared to other meats, not only are you expanding your horizons, you’re also saving yourself a pretty penny. Win win as far as I’m concerned!